A Tour of Wine Grapes: Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc is a white wine grape variety that has been cultivated in France for nearly 1300 years. It is most commonly associated with France's Loire Valley.

French documents first mention Chenin Blanc as early as the year 845, and the variety has appeared in various parts of the Loire Valley under a multitude of synonyms since.

Today, just over half of the world’s production of the Chenin Blanc grape is from South Africa with approximately a third being grown in France.

Its high acidity levels mean it can be produced in a number of different styles: As (1) a sweet, botrytis-affected dessert wines, (2) light, honeyed sparkling wines and (3) as full-bodied, still white wines.

(1) The sweet, botrytis dessert wines are most famously from Sauternes, France. (2) Light honeyed sparkling wines are often from France including Vouvray Pétillant and Crémant de Loire. (3) Full-bodied still wines are produced around the world including South Africa, France, the United States, Argentina, Australia, and New Zealand.

The grape fell out of fashion somewhat in the early 20th Century, but renewed interest in the 1980s reinvigorated Chenin Blanc's position as a classic and noble grape variety.

Wines produced from Chenin Blanc grapes exhibit aromas of quince and yellow apple. They can also have a waxy or oily scent along with lemon zest and in warm climates, aromas of guava, pineapple and pear.

Flavors of Chenin Blanc include green apple, quince, pear and lemon. Warm climate wines (e.g., South Africa) have tropical flavors of pineapple, guava, mango and peach. If aged in oak, Chenin Blanc can take on flavors of vanilla, caramel, butterscotch and nutmeg.

Because of Chenin Blanc’s high acidity, it is very age-worthy. Dry Chenin Blanc wines can be aged 10-20 years.

Chenin Blanc should be served in the range of 45 - 55 °F with un-oaked wines being served cooler than oaked wines. Use a standard tapered rim glass.

Young wines can be decanted for 30 minutes to help soften the “steely” acidity.

Behind the Cork™ - Carneros Creek Reserve Chardonnay

2023 Carneros Creek Reserve Chardonnay ($29.95)

Carneros Creek Winery (now a brand under Carneros Wine Company) was originally founded by Francis Mahoney in 1972. While the physical winery was sold to Michael Mondavi in 2006, the Mahoney family has retained the brand names.

This Carneros Creek Chardonnay was aged six months in 25% new French oak and 5% Acacia wood. Acacia’s influence is primarily textural and aromatic. It is said to allow the primary fruit flavors to remain the "star." But another "unusual" side effect of Acacia is that it can impart a vivid golden-yellow tint to the wine, making the Chardonnay look slightly more concentrated.

This Chardonnay is indeed a bright golden color and has aromas of tropical fruits and pear, with subtle floral notes. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine has tropical fruit flavors including nectarine, citrus and green apple. It did not undergo Malolactic Conversion in order to retain the naturally high acidity. It finishes crisp and bright. [ABV: 13.5%, pH:3.5, TA: 5.2 g/L]

Carneros Creek Reserve Chardonnay is a refreshing wine that’s widely available and reasonable price. A great fit as this week’s Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week. Cheers!

The opinions expressed are entirely my own.

A Tour of Wine Grapes: Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is one of the most widely planted varieties. Although it is probably best known as the white grape of Burgundy it’s also a major grape in the production of Champagne.

Chardonnay is a versatile grape, and its style can vary widely depending on where it’s grown and how it’s made.

Basically, Chardonnay grapes produce wines of a light golden hue, with notes of citrus, green apple, with floral aromas. On the palate, Chardonnay has moderate acidity and moderate alcohol with a medium body.

But it’s said that Chardonnay is a bit of a chameleon — it reflects its winemaking process more than almost any other grape.

Crisp and Bright - This style is based on Chardonnay’s natural high acidity with flavors of green apple, lemon, lime and pineapple. It is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks so as to leave these flavors unaltered. They are minimally aged and consumed young so as to feature the bright acidity, crisp citrus and tropical fruit flavors as well as its minerality.

Soft and Buttery - These wines are the result of specific winemaking techniques that give the wine a rich, smooth texture and a creamier mouthfeel. One of the key factors that contribute to this style of Chardonnay is Malolactic Conversion where the harsh malic acid (the tart, green apple-like acid) is converted into softer lactic acid (found in milk and dairy products), which creates a smoother, creamier texture. Another key factor is oak aging which imparts flavors like vanilla, toast, and butter. Oak aging also helps soften the wine’s structure, adding complexity and a smooth, creamy mouthfeel. Another wine-making factor is aging Chardonnay on-lees (the dead yeast cells left over after fermentation). Aging on the lees (sur lie), can contribute to a fuller, creamier texture and develop subtle nutty or bread-like flavors. This can also increase the perception of softness in the wine.

Chardonnay can easily age 5-10 years under proper storage conditions.

Serve un-oaked Chardonnay in a U-shaped white wine glass with a smaller bowl. Oaked Chardonnay benefits from being served in a larger bowl wine glass to capture the aromas.

Both types of Chardonnay can be served at 45 -55 °F. Generally an un-oaked Chardonnay is served colder than an oak Chardonnay.

Chardonnay does not require decanting.

Behind the Cork™ - Sobon Estate Barbera

2020 Sobon Estate Amador County Barbera ($17)

Shenandoah Vineyards in Plymouth, CA, was founded in 1977 by Shirley and Leon Sobon. They moved from Los Altos, California, where Leon was a Senior Scientist with the Lockheed Research Lab. Leon's gift for home winemaking led him to leave Lockheed and begin a new career as a Winemaker.

The selection of a winery site in the Shenandoah Valley of Amador County was well researched. Leon and Shirley and their six children moved to the old Steiner Ranch, outside Plymouth, CA, planted a vineyard, and converted the old stone garage to the Shenandoah Vineyards winery.

This Sobon Barbera from Amador County is one of the best! It is deep purple in color with aromas of black fruit and herbs. On the palate, this medium-full bodied wine has bright fruit flavors of blueberry, boysenberry and cherries. The tannins on this Barbera are moderate and the acidity is high - a classic Barbera trait (TA: 6.2 g/L).

Sobon Estate Amador County Barbera is an excellent wine at a fantastic price. And, widely available too! A perfect fit as this week’s Behind the Cork™ Wine of the Week. Cheers!

The opinions expressed are entirely my own.

A Tour of Wine Grapes: Carmenere

Carménère 🍷

Carmenere grapes grown at Equinox Vineyard, Olanesti, Moldova (Wikimedia Commons)

The name Carménère (kar-men-nair) comes from the French word carmin (meaning crimson). Unlike many grapes whose leaves turn yellow or brown, Carménère leaves turn a brilliant, fiery red in the fall, long before the grapes are even ready to harvest.

Carménère was one of the six original red Bordeaux grapes.

Known for its deep crimson color, it was historically used to add color and structure to Bordeaux blends. Then, it was nearly wiped out by the 19th-century phylloxera epidemic. It was thought to be extinct until it was discovered thriving in Chile in 1994 - it had been mistaken there for Merlot!

Today, three-quarters of the world’s Carménère production continues to be from Chile where it is considered to be their signature wine.

Wines made from Carménère grapes exhibit notes including red cherry, blackberry, black pepper and green bell pepper/herbaceous notes. With oak aging, the wines will develop notes of cocoa powder, tobacco and leather.

Carménère can be aged for 5-15 years. It should be decanted for 30 minutes before serving in a red wine glass at 60-68 °F.