The New Grapes to be Included in Bordeaux Wine Blends

There are many different types of grapes grown in Bordeaux and used in their famous wines.

In the past, there were just six varietals allowed for making red wine in Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménre. White wines were limited to the use of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Gris, Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Merlot Blanc, Mauzac, and Ondenc.

But in January of 2021, the governing body in Bordeaux allowed four new red varieties, including Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets, and Arinarnoa, as well as two white varieties, Alvarinho and Liliorila. This was done to give more viticultural options to grape growers to address climate change and combat less hospitable conditions. The new grapes will be listed officially as "new varieties of interest for adapting to climate change". This puts them third in the hierarchy behind "major" and "additional" grapes in official documents. This status will again be reviewed in 2031.

Under current restrictions, usage of the new varieties is limited. They may only account for five percent of the planted vineyard area, and a maximum of ten percent of a wine blend. Because of France's wine labeling regulations, these new varieties will not appear on Bordeaux labels. So, these changes to battle climate change will go relatively unnoticed for now.

Although you may not notice any real change in Bordeaux wine blends, they are changing as the world’s climate is changing. Cheers!

The Italian Lacrima Wine Grape

The Lacrima (lak-kree-mah) grape variety is one that I recently came across in a rosé blend. It is a native grape from the Marche region of Italy.

It is also known by the name of the wine that is used produce - Lacrima di Morro d'Alba.

The name of the grape seems to have derived from the fact that the berries, when ripe, ooze juice droplets that appear as tears (lacrima means tear in Italian). This is one of the reasons that the variety has had such a decline in the early 20th Century – the split grapes attract pests and diseases and were largely replaced by grape varieties that were easier to cultivate. But, there has been a recent rediscovery of the Lacrima grape and it is being replanted.

It has a black berry, with thick and consistent, blue-black colored skin. It produces intense ruby red wines with purple hues. The nose can be aromatic with notes of violets. With age, it can develop notes of strawberry, cherry, blackberries and blueberries. Lacrima di Morro d’Alba is a medium bodied wine with smooth tannins. And, it also works very well as a blending grape. Cheers!

The Ciliegiolo Grape

The Ciliegiolo (cheeli-oh-JOL-oh) grape gets its name from an Italian word for cherry, a fruit that the Ciliegiolo grape resembles in its wine’s aroma and flavor.

Although traditionally used as a blending grape in Chianti, since around 2000 it has been used to make varietal wines that range from light (somewhat like a Pinot Noir) to big and complex.

Wines made from the Ciliegiolo grape tend to be somewhat low-acid and low-alcohol. It does not need much bottle aging and is quite drinkable young.

In Tuscany, Ciliegiolo is now being used to make fuller, more structured varietal wines, especially in southern Maremma Toscana.

Recent DNA analysis has shown that Ciliegiolo and a grape called ‘Calabrese di Montenuovo’ are the parents of Sangiovese, but further testing seems to be needed to definitively determine the ancestry.

Watch for the next Behind the Cork™ Wine Blog that will feature four Ciliegiolo-based wines from Maremma Toscanna. Cheers!

Once Again it's Beaujolais Nouveau Time!

Beaujolais Nouveau. Its name literally means 'new Beaujolais.' This wine is named for the village of Beaujeu in France, which is a small region just south of Burgundy.

On the third Thursday of each November, which is November 18th this year, France releases Beaujolais Nouveau wine to the world.

The 'new' part of this wine is due to the fact that the grapes used to make this wine are picked from the vineyards just a couple of months prior to its release! That's compared to most wines that spend at least a year or more going through the fermentation and aging process before being bottled and shipped to market.  But Beaujolais Nouveau gets from the vineyard to you in about two months!

Word has it that this wine was originally produced for the harvest workers in France to immediately thank them for all their hard work just after harvest was complete. But now its production is somewhere between 30-60 million bottles so that the entire world can enjoy.

Although there are more than 100 Beaujolais Nouveau festivals held each year in the Beaujolais region, the 'Les Sarmentelles' multi-day festival is said to be the biggest and most famous for celebrating the release of Beaujolais Nouveau. The festival includes music, dancing, fireworks and, yes, plenty of wine.

This wine is produced entirely from handpicked Gamay grapes and because it is so new, it is very fresh and fruity. Many describe Beaujolais Nouveau as having flavors of candied cherries, strawberries, red plum, bananas and bubble gum.

Beaujolais Nouveau is meant to be enjoyed young, not critiqued. So, pick up a bottle soon and give it a slight chill. Then raise a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau to the French harvest workers. It's Beaujolais Nouveau time! Cheers!

Lambrusco - The Sparkling Red Wine of Italy

Lambrusco is both a brightly colored grape variety and a sparkling red wine produced in Italy.

In the past, Lambrusco has been known as a cheap, bright and fizzy wine often served with ice cubes (remember the old ‘Riunite on ice’ commercials?) But, today there are top Lambruscos that barely resemble those sweet versions that flooded U.S. shelves in the 1970s and 1980s.

Lambrusco comes from Emilia-Romagna which is a large region that cuts across north-central Italy. Major production areas include Modena, Reggiano and Parma.

Historically, Lambrusco wines were widely produced in the methode traditionelle, a process requiring more care and attention because the second fermentation, that creates the bubbles, was done in the bottle. But, today, most Lambrusco wines are produced using the Charmant (or tank) method where it goes through its secondary fermentation in large steel tanks and is then bottled.

While Lambrusco is a grape variety, there is actually an extended family of varieties of grapes that can be used to produce Lambrusco that are all grouped under the “Lambrusco” category.

The styles of Lambrusco can still vary widely. They can be produced as either frizzante (gentle bubbles), or spumante (forceful bubbles) and be labeled Secco (dry), Amabile (slightly sweet) or Dolce (sweet).

Today, the best Lambruscos are dry (not sweet), have delicate aromas of violet and crisp red-berry flavors. They’re silky smooth sparkling wines that offer bright acidity. Most are also extremely well priced. So, give this Italian sparkling red wine a try. It pairs well with a lot of big, bold Italian hearty cuisines. Cheers!