Ever Heard of the Baco Blanc Grape?

Last time we looked at Baco Noir, a hybrid grape that produces a medium-bodied red wine. But, there’s also a Baco Blanc, a white wine grape. Both of these hybrid grapes were developed by François Baco.

Baco Blanc was developed in 1898 by crossing of the Folle Blanche and Noah grapes. It’s notable for being the only hybrid grape variety permitted for use in any French AOC appellation, that being Armagnac.

Baco Blanc tends to produce neutral flavor, high acid grapes with lower sugars. This turns out to be more suitable for distillation, notably for brandy, than for wine production.

Baco Blanc was used in France as the basis for Armagnac brandy until the 1970s when Ugni Blanc took over because it produces greater yields and is more disease resistant. Ugni Blanc now accounts for over 50 percent of Armagnac-producing vines along with smaller amounts of Folle Blanche, Colombard and Baco Blanc.

Use of the Baco Blanc variety was to have been phased out of Armagnac by 2010, but strong advocacy for the grape and its historical importance to Armagnac resulted in authorities allowing the grape to remain. It is still used today for distillation purposes, but only on a very small scale.

Baco Blanc wines are rarely produced on any significant scale these days and it remains to be seen if the variety will ever again be used in any significant manner. So, don’t go looking for a bottle of Baco Blanc wine at your favorite wine store, but know that as a hybrid grape, it has played a notable role in France.

Ever Heard of Baco Noir Wine?

It’s always exciting to me to ‘discover’ and new wine grape. And, while doing some recent reading, I came across Baco Noir (BAH-koh NWAHR), a grape I’d not previous heard about.

Baco Noir got its start in the early 1900. It’s a hybrid grape meaning that it’s a cross between two other grapes (Folle Blanche and Grand Glabre). Francois Baco, a native of Southwestern France, was the one to create the hybrid and, of course, name it for himself.

Baco Noir was grown in France's Burgundy and Loire regions until France barred all hybrids from being grown. So now it is mostly found in the cooler wine-growing regions of North America.

Baco Noir wines are light- to medium-bodied with moderate tannin. Leaving the juice in contact with its dark skins for a long period of time results in a dark red wine, but with lesser skin contact can yield a lighter wine more reminiscent of Pinot Noir.

Along with its fresh acidity, this wine can have red fruit flavors of tart cherry and raspberry as well as bright fruit tones of blueberry and plum. When aged in oak, it can also take on flavors of cassis, black cherry, cedar, tobacco, leather and dried plum.

Now, you may have picked up on the fact that this is grape, Baco Noir, is a red grape (Noir meaning black). And, yes, there is also a Baco Blanc. And that will be the subject of a follow-on piece. Cheers!

It's Time for Beaujolais Nouveau Again!

Beaujolais Nouveau. Its name literally means 'new Beaujolais.' This wine is named for the village of Beaujeu in France, which is a small region just south of Burgundy.

On the third Thursday of each November, France releases Beaujolais Nouveau wine to the world. That means that it will be available on Thursday November 19th this year.

The 'new' part of this wine is due to the fact that the grapes used to make this wine are picked from the vineyards just a couple of months prior to its release! That's compared to most wines that spend a year or more going through the fermentation and aging process before being bottled and shipped to market.  But Beaujolais Nouveau gets from the vineyard to you in about two months!

Word has it that this wine was originally produced for the harvest workers in France to immediately thank them for all their hard work just after harvest was complete. But now its production is somewhere between 30-60 million bottles so that the entire world can enjoy.

Although there are more than 100 Beaujolais Nouveau festivals held each year in the Beaujolais region, the 'Les Sarmentelles' multi-day festival is said to be the biggest and most famous for celebrating the release of Beaujolais Nouveau. The festival includes music, dancing, fireworks and, yes, plenty of wine.

This wine is produced entirely from handpicked Gamay grapes and because it is so new, it is very fresh and fruity. Many describe Beaujolais Nouveau as having flavors of candied cherries, strawberries, red plum, bananas and bubble gum.

Beaujolais Nouveau is meant to be enjoyed young, not critiqued. So, pick up a bottle or two next week and give it a slight chill. Then raise a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau to the French harvest workers. It's Beaujolais Nouveau time! Cheers!

Barbera Wine in California

While Barbera is originally from Italy, it was brought to California by Italian immigrants in the 19th century.

Much of it was originally grown in California’s Central Valley where it has been widely used as a blend component in mass-produced jug wines.

Word has it that Barbera was a personal favorite of Ernest and Julio Gallo. Their vineyards, planted in the early 1970s, are said to still be producing Barbera. Barbera is believed to be a component in Ernest and Julio Gallo’s Hearty Burgundy and the Italian Swiss Colony Winery has also reportedly used it successfully for several of their table wines.

Today, Barbera is being produced in many of the finer wine regions of California and seems especially well suited for Northern California’s El Dorado and Amador Counties.

I’m constantly on the lookout for Barbara. It’s difficult to find and still somewhat of a wine that doesn’t get the respect that it deserves. So, if you are lucky enough to find a bottle of California Barbera, give it a try. And, it’s no surprise that it pairs very well with hearty Italian foods. Cheers!

Barbera Wine in Italy

Last time we began looking at Barbera, a wine that in Italy has traditionally been produced as an inexpensive table wine to be enjoyed regularly with meals. It’s not been hailed as a great wine - there are other Italian wines that get that spotlight.

Barbera is thought to have originated in the hills of central Piemonte (“peh-ah-MON-tey”) Italy, where it has been known from the 13th century. That’s significantly earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon that has only been around since the 17th century.

Barbera is an early-ripening grape that, in Italy, is commonly grown on the cooler lower slopes below the more highly prized Nebbiolo grapes, and in other secondary locations. The best known Barbera is from the DOCG (the highest classification for Italian wines) of Barbera d'Asti. You’ll also find ‘Barbera d'Alba’ DOC (the main tier of Italian wine classification) and Barbera del Monferrato DOC, which tends to be somewhat sparkling (frizzante) and is rarely exported.

It wasn’t until the 1980s that the quality of Barbera began to significantly improve in Italy. It started being planted in better sites, yields were limited for quality as opposed to quantity and more attention was given to aging in better barrels. This took Barbera from a common light-bodied wine to something more special with greater flavor and character.

Barbera wines are best known for flavors of sour cherry, blackberry, herbs and black pepper with light tannins and high acidity.

The lightest versions of Barbera are generally not recommended for cellaring. I’ve learned this the hard way having previously opened three ‘prized’ bottles of Barbera on one special night and finding that all three, which had been stored properly in my wine fridge for approximately five years, had gone bad.

So, there’s a quick review of Barbera from Italy. Next time we’ll take a look at how Barbera came to California and its history here. Until then, Cheers!